Couple of weeks tour of North Vietnam, Hanoi, The Ha Giang and Cao Bang mountain regions and Ha Long Bay.
Tour was organised by Tripadeal and including flights was very good value for money. All accommodation was good or very good, with good locations and facilities. We were blessed with a fun group (18 total) of like-minded people, which made the trip really enjoyable. Really good tour guide Thanh, excellent English (certainly better than our Vietnamese), just occasionally made a few “optimistic” descriptions or unlucky predictions. Details below if you want to read on, but overall, this was our 2nd Tripadeal holiday and can recommend and hopefully we will be using them again. Links to pictures also on each day below.
Day 1. Sydney to Hanoi.
$20 schooners at Sydney airport, was a bit of a rort, but hey when you’re on holiday eh! Compared to later in the trip does make you question which country is more “developed”. Flight was with Vietnam Airlines, which were OK, but one entertainment screen was not working out of our three, which made for a slightly tedious flight (remember to bring a book!) But just another “1st world” problem.
Arrived late in the day at Hanoi airport, and after a little bit of confusion, hooked up with tour Rep and got the coach into Hanoi and our hotel in the old quarter. Traffic just as mad as we remember from our last visit here over 10 years ago. Hotel – Hanoian Central Hotel. Clean rooms, bar and restaurant (Only tried the breakfast, which was OK, if not memorable. Coffee – Vietnamese default!).
Day 2 Hanoi.
Started with an organised tour of Hanoi to get our bearings. Usual highlights – Ho Chin Min Mausoleum, One Pillar Pagoda, Ba Dinh, Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam (Temple of Literature or first university effectively), The Huc Bridge and Turtle lake (Hoan Kiem Lake). Finish of with the obligatory pedi-cab/cyclo ride around town, complete with “voluntary” tip. No complaints, as I think our rider was at least 80 and had three words of English, and a similar number of teeth. Good lunch at a local restaurant somewhere vaguely near beer street. 1st of many Saigon Beers.
Refresh back at hotel, then round the corner to a Bia Hoi Bar. Interesting couple of hours, with some “colourful locals”, ending in a police raid and us helping to retrieve tables and stools from being confiscated. Not wanting to engage further with the local constabulary, decided best to pay and make our way elsewhere. Pity as the Bia Hoi was good and about 80c a schooner. Finished the night at one of the “Met” restaurants for a very good supper.
Day 3 – Hanoi to Ha Giang.
First stop, twin mountain. First look at the mountains that will be with us for the next few days. Lunch, complete with pig in garage, was very good, but as would become usual, way too much food. Minor detour to retrieve somebody’s passport from the restaurant (not one of ours), then a sober stop at the national cemetery, for the fallen in the war with China 1979-1980. This was followed by a visit to a Tay village (at least 14 ethnic minorities in this part of Vietnam). Hotel for the night was the 5 star Sheraton in Ha Giang. Pit posh for our taste and only gets 1 star from us, as there was no beer in the hotel – anywhere! No good for a tour full of Aussies! Luckily local convenience shop came to the rescue and at less than a dollar a can!
Day 4 – Ha Giang to Don Vang
Another day on the bus up some very twisty roads (if you get travel sick, definitely not the trip for you!). Photo stop at a look out, but a bit misty/cloudy to do it justice, then Quan Ba or Fairy Mountain for another look out and photo op. Next was a visit to a craft centre, run by local women, who are keeping the traditional crafts of the area alive. Really interesting, with the ages of the women ranging from about 60 to 95. Some really nice craft items, specialising in linen goods produced from local sisal or hemp, so much shopping was done by the group and hopefully put food on the table for the village. Next visit to Hmong village, similar to Tay, but perhaps more basic. Then on to our stop for the next two nights in Don Vang.
Hotel was again quite nice, apart from frequent power cuts affecting our part of town (made the lift a bit of a gamble). And although just up a side street (shout out to the bus driver for getting us there) it was also quite rural, so some of the “town folk” in the group not quite used to the sounds of cockerels and hens! As became a theme, despite the promise from Thanh (our guide), no beer in the hotel! Once again local stores came to the rescue for sundowners on the balcony! Group meal at a local restaurant, sadly nothing to write home about as much of the food was cold, but again the company was good.
Don Vang fairly happening on a Thursday night in town, with lots of youngsters having a great time dancing around an impromptu bonfire in the middle of the local square. Those who dancing shoes no longer fit, retired to a very nice bar (Phiem or something similar), whilst the party girls in the group (looking at you Donna, Liz, Rita and possible others) joined in the fun outside! Anywhere else it would have been a big bar bill, but I think a round of three drinks was about $8 for beers and wine. Local beer was made from Buckwheat which grows in the area. Quite tasty and very different to the standard Saigon or Ha Noi Beer.
Day 5 Don Vang Region
After an ordinary hotel breakfast, (except the congee) and default Vietnam coffee! We started the day at the local GeoPark museum/infocentre. This is the centre of the Limestone Karst region, hence the spectacular scenery. Armed with a little knowledge of the local geology, fauna and floral, it was first stop to the national flagpole obviously (impressive scenery on the way though). A few of the group ventured up the 400 steps to a view from the flagpole tower, and to view China on the horizon. This would work up an appetite for the lunch that was to come.
Lunch stop was at a very pretty Lo Lo Chai (ethnic minority) village where we were treated to a traditional hotpot and some homemade corn wine (like moonshine). The black chicken meat was a little challenging for some, especially the chook head, but the flavours were amazing and the corn wine helped wash it down. As usually, way to much food to finish, but hopefully it did not go to waste.
Back to Don Vang for another entertaining night. For a change of cuisine, we tried a local “Italian” which turned out to be very good and shared a couple of Pizzas. Then back to our favourite bar for a night cap (or two). Local square busy again with the youngsters. Met with an American that was travelling the area solo on a motorbike, which sounded like an adventure.
Day 6 Don Vang to Cao Bang with river gorge boat trip.
Early start as this would be a long day on the bus. Up through the spectacular mountains on some very twisty roads (definitely good two-wheel country). Coffee stop after about an hour, and starting to get the hang of the coffee. Black with no sugar or brown with condensed milk, or with a little salt. Then a long descent into the Nho Qhe river gorge, for a scenic cruise. Prepare to fight the locals for a spot on the shuttle buses! Again, spectacular scenery and as usual the pictures don’t really do it justice. From the boat trip, short hop to another local village (bit more touristy that the others), then 5 hours on the bus to Cao Bang, with a stop for lunch at a local family restaurant. Luckily the scenery helped the time pass by quickly.
First of two nights in Cao Bang. Clearly this place not fully on the tourist circuit yet, as we drew lots of curious glances from the locals (especially the kids). Google search did not come up with many options for food and drink, and after being turned away from one place (think it was locals only), ended up eating with some others in the group, at a place they had been recommended by an Italian! Crab pasta turned out to be very good, but had to send the waiter off in search of more cold beer for the second round as we had drunk them out, and didn’t fancy ice in the beer! There was some kind of family night going on in town, with lots of young kids just running around having fun and hardly a smart phone to be seen. Assume the parents were there somewhere! Night caps on the roof bar of the hotel, with a choice of beer or one Cocktail – B52 (which seemed a little culturally inappropriate). Apparently they were having a stock take! Again another first world problem which we managed to overcome.
Day 7 Caves and Waterfalls
Hotel breakfast was actually pretty good, then back on the familiar bus to the Nguom Ngao cave via a knife maker. Knife maker was not there as the whole family had gone off to a wedding apparently, but not surprisingly the attached “shop” was still open (somebody didn’t get to go to the wedding!). Some purchases were made that will need to be declared to Aussie customs, then on to the cave adventure. Still in limestone country, so all the caves around here are amazing. We only had time for the two kilometre underground easy and lit path, but did see some groups preparing for the much longer adventure cave tour, complete with headlamps and worried looks.
Next, one of the highlights of the tour, the Ban Gioc Waterfalls, right on the border with China. Well it’s on the border now, after China “moved” the border during the 1979 war. As ever pictures don’t really do it justice, apparently it is the 4th largest waterfall in the world. But we never did find out based on what metric. Either way it is truly spectacular. Boat trip was well worth it and even the extensive souvenir market on the way out was quite fun (finally found some fridge magnets!).
After another local lunch of generous proportions (good job there was plenty of walking on this trip), it was a short, but high-speed pillion ride on a bike, up some switch backs, to a Buddhist temple. Best bit was the informative and hilarious mural teaching all about Karma! Also Buddhist gods clearly have sweet tooths judging by the offerings.
Back to Cao Bang for dinner at the hotel and nightcaps on the roof bar, where we may have drunk them dry of beer (at least should make the stock take easy!).
Day 8/9 Cao Bang to Hanoi
Uneventful trip back, once out of the mountains it was back on the freeway for most of it. Lunch was at “motorway services/truck stop”, but the food was really good and of course they sold cheap beer!
Back in Hanoi, some of the group arranged a trip to “Train Street” where you can eat and drink right next to train tracks. Treated to three trains passing by whilst there, food and drink pricing clearly based on location, but still a fun experience and still relatively cheap by Australian standard (not that OH&S would ever allow that here).
Next day was a free day in Hanoi, after Thanh did an excellent job to get us out of another pre-booked tour. By this stage, a lie in and some time not on a bus was needed. Easy day mooching around town, visit to the central market, Wiz getting a hot stone massage, visit to a craft beer bar and an excellent Indian curry for lunch. Evening was cocktails on the Solar Skybar, atop a posh looking hotel, followed by a really excellent meal in an slightly upmarket restaurant that we happened to stumble upon. Lang Ong, on “Medicine Street”. We were lucky to get in without booking, but might be wise to book ahead in future. Can highly recommend.
Usual suspects finished the night on the pavement outside hotel, for a couple of coldies from the local Circle K.
Day 10/11 Hanoi to Ha Long Bay and return.
Back on the bus for overnight boat on Ha Long Bay. UNESCO World Heritage area, but still very busy, but at least they are getting the pollution and rubbish under control. No plastic bottles to be taken on the water! There were lots and lots of abandoned half built hotels when we arrived at the boat marina. Apparently a combination of Covid and downturn in economy along with stricter financing rules.
Boat was pretty good, nice ensuite cabin with comfy bed (pity it was only for one night). 1st stop was a visit to an island lookout and artificial beach. We decided the well stocked bar and some cards on the top deck seemed a better option, so sat that one out. Next was a visit to Surprise cave, another spectacular limestone cave. Huge cave that required a bit of a climb to get into and was a little busy to be honest, but well worth a visit.
That night, after a good Vietnamese supper, it was Karaoke for those that wanted it downstairs, or DJ your own music on the top deck. Wiz and the girls gave it their best down stairs, whilst the gents (except poor Tony, who was trapped below) talked beer induced wisdom on the top deck.
Next morning it was an early rise for a Kayak expedition or guided boat trip through another cave, and to view a monkey colony. To my knowledge nobody fell in. Then back to the boat for a final huge feast onboard, on the way back to the marina. My only recommendation to Tripadeal, would be to offer a two-night option for the boat as it is a long bus trip from Hanoi for just one night and also the boat was really fun (also to tell boat to have more than 1 bottle of Rum on board if we are coming back!) Other mention was that we were told we could settle our bar bill on board with a card, but the card machine “was not working” and they needed cash. Luckily for us they took Dong, Aussie and US dollars. Also Thanh our guide said he could pay for those that didn’t have cash and we could pay him back. I think the card machine started “working” as we got back to marina. Pricing was a bit high on board but not outrageous and to be expected (we had got used to 80c schooners in Hanoi).
Day 12 Ha Long Bay to Hanoi and final night shenanigans
Back on the bus for the last time (well apart from getting to the Airport tomorrow). Stop at a pearl farm just near Ha Long Bay. Demo was informative, and no hard sell to buy jewellery. Bonus of “proper” coffee at the cafe. Back to the same hotel in Hanoi (where we left bags that we didn’t want to take on the boat).
Last night get together for the usual suspects, where else but Beer Street. Pretty much as the name implies and probably the biggest bar bill of the trip. Beer street fun and good for people watching if not quiet conversation. Beers at the upper end of reasonable for Hanoi (60ooo-70ooo Dong, about $3.50) a beer. One end of the street is less “family” friendly and aimed more at the young male market shall we say. Worth a visit though (the family friendly end obviously).
Next day was a late check-out, before bus to airport and time to say goodbye. Flight back was via a plane change in Ho Chi Min. Be warned the transfer from domestic to international terminal takes a little while with two security checks. Allow at least an hour.
Tips and take aways (mostly Obvious!)
Vietnam is general safe and friendly, just take the usual sensible precautions.
US dollars not as common as they used to be and cash (Dong) is still king outside of the big cities. ATMs common in cities but less so in the country side.
Some public toilets can be a challenge and always carry TP.
Only drink bottled water, but generally food did not seem to cause any issues with anybody on our group.
Local food is very good, but can be similar after a while to our western taste.
Cross the roads at a steady pace, with confidence and don’t suddenly stop! The bikes and cars will miss you but expect some cars/bike horns.
If you are a coffee drinker, try various styles to find the one that you like best. Black, brown with condensed milk, salt, egg, coconut milk! Part of the adventure. Cities will usually have a Latte or Cappuccino somewhere, but again can be “different”.
Have Fun!